Thursday, August 13, 2009

Seattle to Yellowstone


After leaving Seattle we faithfully followed the GPS directions through miles and miles of wheat fields to Spokane to meet up with some friends from the ADVRider website. The monotony of riding for hours through this kind of landscape is made easier by the occassional conversation with Sue on the intercom about how flat it looks, Oh and of course my 'helmet singing', a technique known only to tone deaf bikers!

"Right Sue, nice bit of straight road, let's see what this baby can do"!!!!
"Shut up, Stop being stupid and stick to the speed limit"

We stopped for lunch in Leavenworth, a quaint place straight out of the Black Forest. We're not just talking the odd building. the whole town had been Bavarianised! Why?

BOB felt very much at home here.

The ride to Jeff and Wendy's was made all the more adventurous by a quirky GPS, as the address it took us to was about 10 miles from where we wanted to be, but it did eventually show us the way once I had typed in the co-ordinates instead of the address.
Like us, Jeff and Wendy are intending to make the trip to South America. Jeff is ready to go tomorrow but I think the jury is still out for Wendy! Jeff donated some South American maps for the GPS and helped sort out some software issues and Sue got Wendy up to date with what we had done on our trip so far. We spent a lovely evening with them (thank you so much), hopefully we'll see them on the road heading South. We then started to make our way east again to resume the original route.

The parrot on Jeff's shoulder is the family pet, beautiful plumage!

We headed for the Glacier National Park in Montana. It was very hot all day and by the time we found some accommodation in Whitefish we were just about melting. We spent Sunday riding the ‘Going to the Sun Road’ it's another of those 'must do' routes and it lived up to expectations.

Lake McDonald

The road up the mountain.

"Back a bit more"

The road had only just reopened after melting snows had caused an avalanche. We spoke to a rider in Alaska who had told us the road was blocked when he came through and there was still evidence of snow bridges, where the damaged trees and debris prevent the snow underneath from melting.

The damage caused by snow is quite impressive.

"Go on Graham stand on it", it'll make a really good shot!

The view of the damage from further up the mountain

Isn't she pretty, What a guy!

More Stunning Scenery

You can only get shots like this with a good telephoto lens.......or if the mountain goat couldn't give a stuff about tourists!

Slightly out of focus foreground, for effect of course.

Why the suprised look? you've seen tourists before.

The top of the pass

On the way down we met some BMW riders who had completed the journey down to Ushuaia (our destination in Argentina) last year and were still buzzing from the experience.

We left the Park and headed South, looking for somewhere to stop the night. We probably had a couple of hours riding left but with the rain starting and storm clouds in the distance we opted for the first available motel in Browning, which was just as well...

BOB gets a wash.

We met a group of Harley riders who made us very welcome and shared their beer and the free entertainment of an electrical storm. Boy were we glad we stopped early.

Toughened bikers will ride in any weather, unless there's beer....Cheers!

The next day we rode to Helena over miles and miles of undulating grass lands (or plains). Seriously all you can see for miles around is the same landscape. It was hot and very windy. We managed to find accommodation where we stayed for a couple of nights and the wi fi really worked here so we were able to catch up on the last blog entry and make some phone calls home using Skype. It’s really good have contact with friends and family back home.

21 miles in a straight line.

The view over the Grand Tetons.

Evening on Jackson lake.

We decided to enter Yellowstone from the south to enable us to ride through the park and exit at the north west (Silver Gate) ready for the next part of the journey east. So on leaving Helena we headed towards Butte had lunch at Spencer (the opal capital of America), passed through the ‘city’ of Teton (pop 570) and via the ski resort of Jackson Hole drove towards the Grand Teton National Park. It was getting late by this time and riding was difficult due to the sun being so low in the sky. There were loads of vehicles coming towards us but we seemed to be the only ones going north. I couldn’t help but think they knew something we didn’t. Once at the park we managed to phone ahead to get a cabin and booked into reception at 20:45, courtesy of a number of delays for road works. We thought it best to eat immediately as the restaurant stopped serving at 21:00 and then collapsed into bed.

Sunrise overlooking the Grand Teton range.

Morning mists.

Yellowstone is everything you would expect, Impressive, Beautiful, Stunning, the weather was boiling hot but we did manage to ride through a hailstorm in the afternoon.

That water is super heated... and that fence looks dodgy.

Old Faithful performs every 92 minutes (give or take 10), so we dutifully waited...............

Along with this lot.

Old Faithful in the background, not so old faithful in the foreground!

Thar she blows!

Hydrothermal pools



You get two of these in a sandwich.


Trees that grow too close to the springs end up being bleached white.

Instruction on how to boil a small child!

Some old geysers smoking.

The RV's over here are huge, just like buses and they are usually towing a car or 4X4 but this one made us smile. The middle section looked like living accommodation and we swear the back part was a horse box!

How do you park it, turn it, wash it?

Firehole canyon falls

I spent hours stalking this elk waiting to get the right shot.......

Along with this lot!

Lower Falls on the Yellowstone River

Stunning!

Tower Creek

Mean looking buffalo, or is it a bison?

Everything stops when these boys cross the road.

This is the home, where the buffalo roam....

Leaving Yellowstone on the way to Cooke City

Overnight accommodation in Silver Gate

Good Night!

Sunday, August 02, 2009

The Saga of the Final Drive

We left Calgary in the wind and rain, the same as when we arrived and it looked like we'd be spending another day in waterproofs, but things eventually cleared up.
The scenery changes abruptly once you leave Glacier National Park and enter the Okanagan Valley, the trees start to disappear and everywhere looks barren with the exception of areas of cultivation alongside rivers.

We would have to do the trip to Vancouver in two days so we decided we'd stop in Kamloops which would give us an easy ride on day 2 but missed the turnoff so continued on to Cache Creek and found a motel just before dark.
The days ride had been fairly unspectacular but had taken us a little over 8 hours to cover 430 miles, so it was good to get a decent meal and a good night's sleep, and tomorrow would be a simple run into Vancouver via Whistler and the Sea to Sky Highway.

The road from Cache Creek to Pemberton is without doubt one of the best, if not the best road we have ridden since we arrived, super road surface, lots of curves and virtually no traffic.

This is one of Sue's favourites, the water really is that colour.

Tens of thousands of trees and this osprey decides to nest on a power pole

Zaap!

The road follows the river through the valleys and up over the mountains where the terrain changes back to forests watered by the rains from the Pacific.

Most of the surrounding lands are native American reserves

Sue at Duffey Lake with new style 'helmet hair

These Canadian beavers don't do things by half!

Coming down into Pemberton the road drops sharply down a series of hairpin bends, we were following a pick up towing a caravan type trailer and a shortwheel base jeep. About half way down we started getting that overheated brake drum smell and by the time we got near the bottom the tyres on the pick up were smoking. I made a quick move and overtook the jeep and shouted at the woman driving the pick up that her tyres were about to burst into flames, she pulled over at the first opportunity and I proceeded to spray water from plastic bottles over the tyres in an attempt to cool them down. We stayed with her long enough to make sure there was no risk of fire and after 20 minutes the rims were still too hot to touch.......lucky lady.

The rest of the journey should have been a steady run past Whistler and into Vancouver, no more than an hour and a half, instead it took us four hours! What we didn't know was that the 2010 Winter Olympics will be held in.......you guessed it,Whistler! Everywhere you looked ten miles either side of the village there was construction of some sort, They were laying new roads, building athlete villages and private condo's ready to cash in on the inevitable tourist influx next year.

It's bloody hot sat on a bike on fresh tarmac.

The next day in Vancouver the first task was to locate the BMW dealer to hopefully sort out the visor problem. I left early and Sue stayed at the motel, I figured it would take me around a couple of hours maximum to get there and back..........WRONG..WRONG..WRONG.
Arrived at Pacific BMW and spoke Mike in parts, I explained the situation and stressed he was our last hope. "No problem" says Mike, "we don't have any visors in stock and I can't afford to lose 2 new helmets until the visors are replaced but I'll take one off a new helmet to help you out". Good effort, at least Sue's helmet will be repaired and I can manage with mine until I can get one shipped out from the UK. As a gesture of thanks I decide to get the tyres replaced at the same time, the TKC knobbies we have been running are too soft for long hauls on tarmac and the front tyre is just about shot. We replaced the rear when we did the crash repair work in Fairbanks so it still has a couple of thousand miles worth of tread left so we'll haul it with us and swap it back when we get to Baja.
"Right Sir have a seat and get yourself a coffee and we should have you out of here in an hour".20 minutes later the service manager comes in and says, "we have some bad news, I'm afraid your final drive has failed". Now to give you an idea of how serious this is, in terms of anatomy if BOB's engine is the heart of the bike then the final drive is the legs, in other words BOB's F*"*ing crippled!.....Swearing, Panic, Anger....how could a bike with less than 12000 miles on the clock have such a catastrophic failure such as this?. The service manager appreciates the gravity of the situation and explains that to repair it under warranty could take 3 weeks if they can get the go ahead from BMW to do the work. We cannot afford to be tied up for another 3 weeks so he offers to carry out a temporary fix by selling us a used drive with some minor cosmetic damage to keep us on the road, and for us to take the bust drive with us and arrange for repair or replacement at a future planned location on our route. "This should have been picked up when you had the rear tyre replaced in Fairbanks" says he, well there's nothing we can do but get on with it and seeing as BOB is due a 12000 mile service we book it into BMW in Seattle and head off to Vancouver Island for a couple of days.

The ferry from Vancouver to Nanaimo (still smiling)

We decided to take a trip across the centre of the island and spend a day whale watching on the Pacific coast on the way across we passed through Cathedral Grove home to some of the worlds oldest and largest Douglas Firs

Not as tall or as large as the giant redwoods but still impressive, some are over 800 years old and the largest is over 9 metres in diameter.

This one looks dead.

We also stopped at Sproat Lake and called in to see the worlds largest flying boats, the Martin Mars water bombers

Tofino harbour on the Pacific Coast

Somewhere out there is the tail of a grey whale about to dive, they disappear for five or six minutes on a lungful of air and resurface hopefully next to the boat. Our whales never did!

Isn't she pretty Capt'n, and if you think I'm going to use this photo to make a cheap gag about seamen then think again!

Totem poles

We spent two days in Nanaimo chilling out and whilst there we visited the Silly Boat Regatta down on the harbour.

Silly boats ready to go

Silly boats racing..... silly boats sinking

On our return to the Vancouver we picked up the final drive and rear tyre and headed to Seattle for the service. The border into the States was a breeze, after trying to find GB or UK on the computerised vehicle records the guy gave up and became more interested in asking how we got the bike here and how much it cost.

Canadian US Border

Much to Sue's amusement, after riding in sweltwering heat all day the three individual foam pads inside my helmet created a new Klingon style 'hair do.

The people at Ride West BMW in Seattle were great. They serviced the bike and also checked out the warranty issues with BMW Germany for the final drive. We had a quick look round Seattle and visited the two main attractions, the Space Needle and Pike Place market.




Pike Place Market

Check out the prices


We also managed to sort out the GPS problem whilst in town, I had paid for the US/Canada map download from the Garmin website but due to hard drive space shortage I was unable to get the maps onto our PC. We called in at the Touratech warehouse in Seattle who are the main importers of aftermarket add ons for dual sport motorcycles, the guys there were really accommodating and allowed me to connect the GPS to their computer and download the maps in the shop. We also decided to invest in a pair of tank panniers which will allow us to shift some of the weight forward on the bike and give us a bit more storage space.

This one went on the Touratech website

Next stop.........?